Goldend96 hat geschrieben: ↑Mo 15. Dez 2025, 16:08
Moinsen, wir sind hier am ende mit unserem ligier. Schön billig geschossen und gehofft schnell fertig zu machen.
Pustekuchen nicht bei den kleinen, Vorallem ligier.
Nicht mal das getriebelager hinten wolte ich wechseln, da es anscheinend drinne sitzt wie ein radlager, nicht geschraubt !!!
Naja schon mit 3 mann versuchen diese scheiß türverkleidung aus zu bauen, die wie bei meinen chatenet geklebt ist.
Leider ist die Qualität bei den ligrers vorallem bei den neueren extreme minderwertig, alles so dünn wie papier auch das handschufach eine katastrophe.
Die Verkleidung reißt, oder die tür vom wagen inkls, verkleidung fängt an zu schmelzen
naja egal auch mit ruhe, seil, draht und gleichmässiger hitze keine chance. Hier in forum gibs auch nichts was das Problem vernünftig und ordentlich behebt. Bei meinen chatenet gings 100 mal besser, liegt auch an der „hohen“ qualität der Verkleidung die echt vieles aushält… Naja danke für jede hilfe.
Hi Goldend96,
Sorry to hear you're having such a rough time with it — the Ligier Xtoo really isn't forgiving when it comes to trim and panel work, and you're not exaggerating about the build quality on the newer ones. The plastics are genuinely thin and brittle, so it's not just you doing something wrong.
A few things that might help if you're still fighting the door panel:
Skip the heat gun on the clips themselves — heat the glued sections only (a hairdryer on a lower setting works better than a heat gun, less risk of warping). Go slowly and work from the edges inward rather than pulling from the middle.
Use a wide plastic trim tool, not a screwdriver — anything metal will punch straight through that panel. A guitar pick or an old loyalty card works surprisingly well for the last stubborn bits.
Check for hidden fixings near the door handle and speaker area — on a lot of these there's a clip or screw hidden under a badge/cap that people miss, and forcing the glued sections without removing it is what tears the panel.
If the panel's already torn, it's sometimes easier to accept a small crack near a mounting point and reinforce it from behind with a bit of epoxy or a plastic-welding kit rather than trying to keep it pristine — trying to save a panel that's already going can cause more damage.
For the regulator/lock itself once you're in — take photos as you go, because the linkage and clip positions aren't obvious to refit blind, and a lot of people end up redoing the panel removal a second time because something wasn't seated right first time round.
Is it the regulator that's failed, or the lock mechanism, or both? If you can post a picture of what you're dealing with once the panel's off, it'll be easier to point you to the right part number and fix.
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